Kill Bill Christmas

Kill Bill Christmas

In the Quentin Tarrantino movie, "Kill Bill", there is a famous scene where Beatrix Kiddo (played by Uma Thurman) storms into a two-storied Japanese restaurant, and kills the Crazy 88 samarai body guards of O-Ren Ishii (played by Luci Liu) in a mad, impossible, incredible sword fighting smorgasborg of demented rage. The movie scene was shot at Gonpachi restaurant in Tokyo, and it was one of the places we wanted to visit. And, since we would be in Tokyo for Christmas, we decided to have a non-traditional western Christmas dinner, and call it the Kill Bill Christmas.

That's the background of the story, but the foreground was just pure fun. After having a few too many beers at Geronimo's on Christmas eve, we woke up late, and started our day at the crack of 1pm. Our first stop was Shibuya to shoot our video (see link on the blog) at the craziest intersection of any place on the planet. When the car traffic stops, and the pedestrians take to the pavement, they can go in any direction or all directions for the next 30 seconds. Then, when the whistles start to blow, and the lights flash, the cars have domain again, and tardy pedestrians are left to make a mad dash to the nearest curb. It's awesome!! Which is why we wanted to shoot our Christmas greeting there.

Since the Japanese only tentatively celebrate Christmas, we had a really hard time finding santa hats. I was pretty adament that we 'have to show our our Christmas spirit', and Cat went along, even though it took several days of looking for hats. In the end, a local from Baskin Robbins ice cream directed us to a department store, and we found the small display with santa hats on the 3rd floor next to the Household Items department. Properly outfitted, we shot 3 videos, and had a ball doing it. Interestingly, several people smiled at us, and a few people kinda payed attention, but for the most part, two people shooting a video in the middle of the intersection wearing santa hats was not an extraordinary event. Only in Tokyo.

After our "shoot", we walked up to Yoyogi park to a glimpse at the cos-play/anime girls. Theirs is such an amazing, artistic, dynamic display of self-expression that has turned into a sustained subculture. We are going back tomorrow to see more of them, ask a few more questions, and for good reason take more pictures.....which they are more than glad to accomodate.

Leaving Yoyogi park, we walked down Harajuku Street, and down some random off-streets, by innumerable funky shops and stylish boutiques. On our way back to Shibuya, we had to pee, so we stopped at a mall, and enjoyed a one-man piano concert playing classic Christmas songs. Being more than a tad homesick, it was good therapy for our souls, and we hugged tightly in our seclusion.

A short subway ride took us to the Midtown Tower in Roppongi. Two days ago we had met Cat's friend, Tomomi, at the building before going to a noodle bar lunch. After lunch, we enjoyed a formal tea ceremony at the Suntori Museum - a profoundly beautiful Japanese tradition steeped in ritual and symbolism. Walking around the park after the tea ceremony, we saw that there was a large Christmas light display, and vowed to come back. Christmas was the perfect day to revisit the light show. It was spectacular on a cool, crisp winter night in Tokyo.

Our final stop before dinner was to toast Christmas at one of the two "ex-pat" bars in Tokyo. Having enjoyed Geronimo's the night before, we combed the side streets to find Mugambo's, and its famous bell. Geronimo's has a drum, and Mugambo's has a bell. When someone buys a round of shots for the bar, the loaded patrons know what bar they're in by the sound. If you hit the drum, then you are buying a round of shots for everyone in Geronimo's. If you ring the bell, you buy a round of shots at Mugambo's. The current shot-buying leader at Mugambo's (according to the neon ticker tape machine) is some rich bloak who has ponied-up for 432 rounds......THIS MONTH. I ordered a beer, and Cat had a shot to honor the bell-man of 432 rounds.....whoever he is.


We had an 8pm reservation for Gonpachi, and showed up 15 minutes early. The staff was sooo nice, and the place was packed. The Maitre De, Kenji is from Venezeula, and he fawned over our hats and Christmas spirit. He has two baby boys, and is married to a Japanese woman. The hostess, Yuma is from Los Angeles, and she looked the part of hollywood starlett, dressed in an elegant form-fitting black dress. After spending some time at our table, she volunteered to take our picture outside to get a true Kill Bill portrait. She was so sweet and down to earth. We loved her. And, we LOVED the food. We ordered the set menu, and it included all the most popular items from each course of the ala carte menu. In the end, we salivated over the beef skewers, and just HAD TO have more......and better. So, we ordered the house specialty Kobe beef skewers - a taste bud altering gastromical extravaganza. In the end, we washed down the 7 course meal with a scoop of french vanilla ice cream drizzled with caramel sauce, and counted our blessings. Yes, we were away from family, from the familiar, but we were still with family, with each other, and that made all the difference in the world.....even on the other side of the world from home.

Merry Christmas. Remember the reason for the season.

Merry Christmas from Tokyo

Our 2nd Anniversary- Tickle the Stars

Our lives have taken many turns in the last year. Nothing exemplifies those changes more dramatically than altitude. On September 15, 2008, we were in divemaster training, living in an oceanside 'love shack' and comfortably suspended 100 feet below the surface in the crystal clear waters of Roatan. One year later, we trekked through the Himalayan mountains to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC), 4130 meters above sea level and seemingly close enough to tickle the stars.

The change in atmosphere is a good metaphor for our lives. In Roatan, we were grounded to one location, and pursuing knowledge and technique to get certified by PADI to be divemasters. We had instructors and mentors, and were tested mentally and physically on a regular basis as part of a program for certification. In the Himalayas, our guide (Yagya "no car, no keys" Karki) wasn't certified in anything other than common sense and good humor. He knew the mountains because he was from the mountains, literally a product of the mountains. Our experience in the Himalayas was not shaped by books or written exams, but by learning rudimentary nepalese expressions, listening to our strained bodies (Yagya's favorite line- "rest is best"), and testing the limits of our endurance. In Roatan, we floated effortlessly and controlled our breathing to maximize 'down time'. In Annapurna Sanctuary, we drudged up and down seemingly neverending paths for 6 to 8 hours a day and had to gasp for air on the steep climbs due to the thin air and relentless stairs. Riding the currents along the West End Wall (a world-class dive site on Roatan), we encountered a myriad of sea life, an array of colorful coral, and an unmatched dramatic underwater topography. Trekking through the clouds to ABC was an act of will to moderate your breathing and provide enough oxygen to your limbs to keep from getting altitude sickness, and the payoff was a night sky so brilliant and bright that it took your breath away...which can be dangerous at that altitude.

Roatan was our first venture away from the life we had known in California. We had suspended our careers and put all our 'things' into storage to pursue a hobby, be beach bums and become hardcore divers. It was a change from our routine, to be sure, but we quickly developed new routines for our 10 weeks on the island. We made friends, and put down roots in a way. It was home away from home- comfortable and easy and stable (sort of).

Nepal was anything but easy and stable. By then, we were vagabonds who toured 14 european countries over 4 months, and then flew to China for three weeks before landing in Nepal. It was hard to keep track of our time zone and the currency exchange rate. We became accustomed to feeling uncomfortable with our surroundings, and to rely on each other to figure out when, where, how and why for each locale. On the Nepal trek, our lives became simple again. Follow Yagya that was our job. He guided us through luscious valleys of rice fields. We trusted Yagya, just as we trusted each other. The trekking was strenous, but each night when we reached our Teahouse and checked into our rustic, spartan room we felt like world-beaters, indominable. While Cat showered off the days sweat, Yagya and I had our daily beers. It was a simple daily formula, and through it all we climbed, and climbed, and climbed.

Not wanting to have us get altitude sickness, Yagya had us stop for an extra long lunch before trekking the final leg to ABC ("rest is best," he'd say with a knowing smile). We hiked through the fog and cloud cover and at last came to the ABC signpost. It looked like a mirage in the fog but got clearer as we neared. The day was September 15, 2009-our 2nd anniversary and we were 13,550 feet above sea level. It was exhilerating!!! After checking in, we washed up and put on more layers of clothing. As the sun fell, so did the temperature. We joined all the other trekkers in the restaurant and ordered hot food and hot tea (kalo chia). As the other patrons finished their meals, and said their goodnights, we played cards and enjoyed the foot heater the owner had put under the table. Cat, in her puffy coat, was particularly reticent to leave the dining hall, which was good because I had a couple of surprises for her.

With only Yagya and a few other guides still in attendance, I unveiled my anniversary plan. First, I had secretly purchased a panoramic postcard of ABC and had written a private note to her. I had Yagya write 'happy anniversary' in nepalese and he signed the card as well. Tears welled up in Cat's eyes as she read the card and I stole a knowing glance at Yagya acknowledging his help. Second, I poured brandy for us and the guides to toast our 2 years of married life. The guides, other than Yagya, were all married with children and they chuckled at the silly Americans making a big deal out of 2 years. Our favorite marital expression is counting down our projected 50 years together (if we live that long). So, we toasted 'just 48 more years to go' and washed back the cold with a swig of Brandy. Lastly, I asked Cat for a dance. She looked at me puzzled, but was game for it so long as we didn't venture too far from the heater. I went into the kitchen and returned with our iPod and two headsets (we have a splitter). In the teahouse nestled below a ring of 25,000 foot snow capped peaks we danced to our wedding song Dance me to the end of love by Madeline Peyroux in the company of 4 sherpas and the smiling cook. Later in our room, we snuggled under two quilts and listened to love songs on our iPod and talked of how far we'd traveled in a year, what we'd seen, our favorite moments and reveled in the moment of our 2nd anniversary.

In the middle of the night, I had to go to the bathroon (too much tea and brandy apparently). After peeing in a hole in the dark, I emerged from the outhouse and looked up for the first time. The clouds had cleared and the 3 a.m. sky was brilliant with stars. It was a different night sky than any I had ever seen. For a few minutes, the cold disappeared and I found myself walking in the clearing, away from the teahouse, slowly turning to take in a 360 degree view of the most stars this side of the earth's atmosphere. I was stunned. Then, the cold wind reminded me to return to my wife, and I did so happily - joyful to have Cat in my life, and content beyond my imagination.

"Just 48 more years to go..."

Vietnam Biking - Cat's Downhill

This ones for you Kenny!

Montenegro to Finland

The last time I wrote we were on a night train from Istanbul to Montenegro. We had been warned about the delays at the border crossings and amount of patience needed to travel via train. We second that warning. We had paid for a ticket all the way to Bucharest with one ‘lay over’ in Sofia, Bulgaria. The border crossings actually went pretty smooth for us. The ‘lay over’ became a ‘laid out’ after we got knocked around because apparently the train peeps in Sofia do not honor the ticket we bought in Istanbul for Bucharest. Sure, we could get to Bucharest but would have to pay them more money...not happenin for these super heroes…that’s beer/food money. We picked ourselves up and found an alternative route to our destination in Montenegro via bus that would actually take us a more direct route and for less money…saweet!!! Not that the punches didn’t keep comings. One leg of the bus route was stopped because of a truck/car accident on a two lane road…we were still on our feet though and caught our connecting bus despite the delay. In the wee hours of the morning, we were directed onto yet another bus to be informed we owed money for our backpacks so they would watch them for us…huh?!?!?!?! It is way too early, we were way too tired and stinky to throw down more money for bags we were hauling around and ‘watching’…check please. The hot tip thrown our way via the bus attendant, “Welcome to the Balkans this is how we do it here.” Niiice. And tomorrow is a new day!-smile.

Luck is a lady and she graced us with a wonderful place to stay in Kotor, Montenegro. We headed this direction on a referral from a fellow traveler and send blessings to that traveler for the tip. Kotor is a fairy tale of a place with a fabulous farmers market with cheese I still dream about. I was not joking when I told the cheese man I was coming back to work on their family farm and learn how to make cheese…and olive oil, chorizo, custards…the list is long and yummy thanks to the Europeans. Matt and I showered after settling into our room in a 17th century mansion and went for a walk. Kotor was built on a fjord and what we learned later and would recommend when one visits is to rent a boat or car and go exploring all of the villages around the lake. There are lots of little nooks and crannies for people to poke their noses into and explore. We settled on hiking to the top and checking out St Ivan's Fortress. The views are worth every single one of the bazillion steps it takes to get there. Fun bit of info about Montenegro: it had the second tallest people on the planet at one time(behind the Swahili of Africa). I fit in just fine, but Matt looked like a Montenegrin mini-me.

The next day we headed for Dubrovnik, Croatia via bus. When on this bus be sure to set on the side of the driver…great views of the lake and surrounding villages if you did not rent a boat or car. Dubrovnik was again a fairy tale of a place and Matt and I decided this was the perfect place to lick our travel worn wounds and stay for a bit. We found a great hostel (http://www.begovic-boarding-house.com/) and were so grateful to chill in the waters of Croatia. We recommend taking a ferry out to Lopud Island for a day and sunny yourself like a lizard on the rocks. On the island they have a fascinating botanical garden which survived 50 hits during the bombing in 1991. It is not your typical tropical lush botanical garden but a garden which contains plant species which are being monitored and studied to see how they thrive/or not in the present climate they are in. There is also a PKK beach on the island. Peak Kause you Kan refers to nuding up or as we were schooled one night in Helsinki being a naturalist. There are fascinating views (get your mind outta the gutter they are not of the naturalist-smile) from the island of old town Dubrovnik. Perhaps the BEST view though is from Cold Drink in old town. Get lost in the city and find your oasis…Godspeed my friend! We loved Dubrovnik and added it to our list of places we will return to someday…that and Korcula which was our next stop.

Korcula is known for its olive oil (love the place already), dessert wine, Marco Polo and, in our book, yummy pizza (http://www.korculainfo.com/restaurants/pizzeria-tedeschi.html). We lucked out again with a wonderful place to stay with a local family who converted part of their 600 year old house into a guest house. Their daughter is the one who owns the yummy pizza joint (Kurt’s is still our favorite though…miss ya Dooley!). We took a bus out to Lumbarda for the day and found a little spot to bake and get wet. Not before walking through fields of sun drenched grapes, raspberries and olive trees though. We could just imagine how beautiful this area must be during harvest. Matt got lost one day on a ferry while we were still in Dubrovnik and was told of the great and enchanting hiking to be done on some of the islands. The tale was told with goose bumps and as we were traveling via ferry through the Croatian islands we believe. From Croatia we made our way to Prague via train and airplane overnighting in Berlin…weee!!!


In Prague we were graced to meet Ray and be initiated into our first couch surfing experience (http://www.couchsurfing.org/chsurfing.org/). Matt had traveled to Prague twenty years ago (just after the fall of Communism) and it was interesting to hear Ray and him compare the Prague past with the Prague present. It has had quite a face lift and is filled with all sorts of wonder – like beer gardens with incredible views, black light Beatles musicals, super long stairway to heavenesque subway escalators, get outta town drop dead amazing architecture and…killer ribs and hot wings! (courtesy of Ray and his skinny on all the good places to eat in Prague).

Prague led us to Russia and seeing red and having vertigo because we did not know how to read any of the signs and hospitality and helpfulness is not high up on the tourism boards list of desired qualities in their staff. Matt’s likable, warm personality barely put a dent in the perma frost of the employees at the hostels we stayed in. Sure, they have all been through some shit historically but so have the Irish and they were the friendliest people you could ever meet. As my uncle noted, “perhaps it’s because they do not have any good beer.” We’ll go with that-smile. What they do have is stunning architecture, beautiful countryside, the Hermitage (you need at least a week alone to fully appreciate this amazing museum) and Madonna! Yep, we managed to scalp two front area tickets to Madonna’s Sticky and Sweet concert in Palace Square in St Petersburg. Madge put on an amazing concert and song lyrics such as ‘come together from every nation’ took on a whole new meaning for us. It was awesome and the perfect finale to our travels in Russia.

We have been in Finland for four days and are grateful for the smiles, saunas and peacefulness of this beautiful country. Well, that and their smoked salmon, cheap but good beers and wide variety of hard cider-smile. Next stop…Hong Kong…whoa Nelly!!!

Images from Turkey