Having a birthday exactly 2 weeks before Christmas was a curse early in my life. My family did a good job of making me feel special growing up, but there were still the unavoidable "combo-gifts" (one slightly bigger gift that was for both my birthday and Christmas). I never wanted for anything important growing up, but still longed for memorable birthday parties, and Christmas differentiation.
My first differentiated birthday was when I turned 30. I called the party "Teo's 3-0", and essentially hosted my own party with a large contingent in San Francisco. The night was a revelation. I discovered that people were in a party mood 2 weeks before Christmas - all I had to do was ride the holiday spirit wave. Since then, I've plotted and planned my own birthday parties, to greater or lesser extent than when I turned 30, and often incorporated domestic and international travel, because, well it was a good time to travel after Thanksgiving and just before the Christmas rush.
Fast forward to 2009. The days were winding down on being 45 years old, and I had been negligent in putting together a plan. As of Thanksgiving, Cat and I were in limbo, and were contemplating canceling the remainder of the around-the-world (ATW) tour. The source of the limbo was that just before Thanksgiving, Cat's mom (Barbara) had not been feeling well and scheduled some very serious tests to see if she had a relapse of breast cancer, as well an MRI to rule out brain cancer. Serious stuff, indeed, so Cat flew home to offer support during the diagnosis. If Barbara was real ill, we were going to cancel the remainder of our world tour. Fortunately, Barb's tests came back clean and healthy, so Cat made plans to rejoin me in Bali. She did so a week before my birthday. Being in Indonesia, there were a ton of choices, but with time being short, I shared with Cat my half-plan (half baked, 50 percent random). Cat needed to see Ubud on Bali for a few days, and then I wa
nted to get to a remote beach.....fast. We opted for Gili Trawangan, a small sand bar off Lomboc island (see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gili_Trawangan), just a 4 hour ferry ride from Bali. It's a sandy shoal of an island, about 6 kilometers around. We walked it one morning, and it was a top-10 hike of our world tour in my book (Cat keeps her own book).
My birthday actually started at sundown on Dec 10th (on the evening after our walk around the island). Cat thought it would be fun to do a night dive off Gili, so we signed up with Blue Marlin Dive. It was a very cool dive, both in terms of all the cool critters we saw, and also for some man-made structures they are using to rebuild the coral reef.
The next morning was perfectly sunny, and we had breakfast on the beach, toes firmly planted in the white sand. The day went by in a flash, but
included all of life's pleasures - some winky winky (a good husband never talks......but blogging......that's acceptable), snorkeling Shark Point, booking our travel and liveaboard for Komodo islands (no small feat; we visited 5 travel agencies before our Divemaster recommended his friend, Jenny, who had friends that run a liveaboard), sunset beach, and a tasty grilled fish dinner under the stars. It was a great day.
The Komodo Liveaboard trip was still technically part of my birthday celebration, but it was a gift for us both, and something we had been dreaming about ever since we put Bali on our world tour. Indonesia is full of amazing dive locations, but something kept luring us back to Komodo. The more we read about the overall diving experience, the more we felt that we couldn't pass it up. But, we had to earn it. The flights from Lomboc to Bali, and then down to Flores to pick up our ship were completely booked for the dates we needed. So, we made a painful decision. We opted for the boat/bus/ferry/bus/ferry route - 34 hours start to finish!!! By the time we met Eddy and Fiona at the Lounge Restaurant/Bar in Flores we were in shambles, but completely STOKED for the adventure ahead......provided it started with a shower and a cold drink.
On the evening of December 13th, we boarded the Ari Jaya along with Thibault the Frenchman and Remco from Holland. The captain and crew were salty Sulawesi, all related, and all very much sea faring gents. When I was doing research about Komodo diving, the reports all said that drift diving was "the thing to do". In his first dive brief, Eddy explained why Komodo was unique. Between Komodo Island and Rinca Island, there is a East-West reef that lies 5 to 50 meters below the surface. On the North and South sides of this reef, the oceans quickly drop-off to 1000-1500 meters. So, everyday, when the tide changes, all the water runs in class-5 river rapids over the reef. And, with the heavy currents come hordes of all types of Indonesian fish - small blemmies to sharks to dolphins to manta rays. Or, at least that's what Eddy "told us" in his first dive brief. We had to go see for ourselves, of course.
Eddy and Fi (pronounced Fee) eased us into the drift diving with a protected cove dive at Saboyer. It was a terrific site, with only a little current and a wealth of sea life. It was the appetizer dive. After a giant-stride off the ship, we descended to 20 meters, and promptly were greeted by a manta ray gliding along below us. I was thinking, "nnnice start." Later in the dive I spotted a fairly rare crocodile fish resting on the reef, practically invisible in its camouflage. The visibility was good, the reef was healthy, and we were back to diving. Day 1 on the Ari Jaya included 3 dives at various, different topography sites, with meals interspersed during our surface intervals. After our last dive of the day, we took the dinghy around an island to intercept the big boat. It was sunset, and the sky was aflame in colors; punctuated with massive storm clouds and flashes of lighting. Eddy and Fi grinned knowingly, and were likely thinking, "just another day in th
e Komodos." For us, it was heaven on earth.
Day two started with a short dinghy ride to Rinca Island to see the legendary Komodo dragons. From the dock, we made our way through a mangrove forest and high-tide lag
oon to the ranger station. It was 7:30am when we signed in, and picked up our guide. After a short walk we came to the guide's stilted houses, and sunbathing on the ground were 10 adult dragons. Apparently, the moment they smell the guides cooking breakfast, they waddle in from the jungle and surrounding hills, hoping for a handout. The guides waved good morning to us, and came down from their houses, each careful to look under the staircase in case a dragon was lurking. Given it was early morning, the dragons were docile and sleeping, trying to warm their cold blooded anatomy. A few moved (slowly, of course) to better sun positions, or into a better breakfast buffet position, I suspected. Everyone in our group was actively taking pictures and video - amazed, intensely curious. The guide kept repe
ating, "not too close. Not too close." Apparently, one bite from a dragon and the victim would require a week in a hospital getting IV's of antibiotics. Komodo dragons were (and always will be) highly lethal predators, particularly after they warm up in the sun.
After the initi
al photo op, the guide led us on a hike through the jungle to see the dragon habitat. Along the path, we came upon a clearing with 10+ large holes. Our guide explained that dragons dig several holes, but lay eggs in only one to confuse other predators, which it turns out are mostly other dragons. As the old Indo saying goes, "it's a dragon eats dragon world out there." Further along the path we came upon a female dragon with her head buried in a hole, dirt flying over her shoulder. In our commotion, she stopped, pulled her head out of the hole, and considered us. She was obviously unafraid of humans, and why should she be when we were terrified of her. The guides had found, and hung on a tree, a skeleton of a water buffalo that had been attacked, and its bones picked clean by the dragons. It was a chilly reminder of how and why these Jurassic survivors had flourished in this remote island region. Making our way back to the dinghy, we came upon a lon
er on the trail. We didn't have our guide, nor his long thumping-stick, so we pulled to the side to give her plenty of room to pass. She waddled in the morning sun, probably smelling the guides cooking (or the human buffet on the trail ahead of her), and her pink tongue licked the air. She was the top of the food chain, and just getting warmed up.
Day 2 diving was awesome. The premier, world-renown dive site in the Komodo Islands is Castle Rock, and that was our second dive on Day 2. Eddy's dive brief was great because he explained why the site was so unique, and not just where and how we would dive the site. To paraphrase his more eloquent explanation, Rinca and Komodo islands are separated by a shallow channel (5-50 meters) that runs Ea
st/West. When the tides change, the seas run from North to South, and funnel billions of gallons of water over the shallows in raging rivers of currents a couple of times a day. The seas go to 1000+ meters deep on the North and South sides of the islands, and the tidal shift essentially pours 5-10 meters of open sea through a narrow straight and over the shallow reefs. The sheer power of this spectacle is amazing, and we had the good fortune to be part of the tidal dance through the Castle Rock dive. Harry, the dinghy boat driver, perfectly positioned us on the side of the reef, down current from our target location on the South end of the reef. We had to do a negative entry (definition: back roll out of the boat with no air in the BC, and extra weight, and immediately descend to the reef at 20 meters). The current was the strongest I have ever experienced, and it immediately pushed us back as we kicked for the bottom. It was an exhilarating, anxious start to the dive. Once on the bottom, our dive plan was to move from the side of the reef, directly into the current, to the point of Castle Rock. In short bursts of kicking, we made our way from rock-hold to rock-hold, resting at each stop to ease our breathing. Me and Cat followed Fi to a forward position on the reef, and found a bare spot to lay down and enjoy the show. And, Oh MY!! what a show. The point of the rock faced into the oncoming currents, and a complete eco-system of sea life danced before our eyes, like a an underwater big-screen Hollywood premier. It was sensory overload, really. Riding the currents, white tipped and black tipped sharks prowled left and right 5 feet in front of us. There were schools of giant trevally, tuna, barracudas, and jacks, and the occasional hawk-billed turtle moving like a ship surrounded by jetskis. The species were too many to count, really. The aquarium show almost allowed us to forget that we were staring into a raging river, holding on for our lives. We were mesmerized until Fi motioned for us to follow her and Eddy into the blue. It's one of Eddy's favorite things to do in Komodo - be one with the fish; join the party. So, we kicked into the current and out into the deep blue ecosystem. The spectacle of nature was on full display, and we enjoyed it to the fullest with wide-eyed (some might say, bug-eyed since our eyeballs were practically protruding out of our masks) wonder. After a time, Fi signaled to us that the show was over, and we rode with the currents (finally, going with it) back to the middle area of the rock, and into the shallows for the safety stop. For the first time in my diving history, I ran low on air, and had to borrow from Cat and Fi. This minor embarrassment aside, it was SOOO exciting to dive Castle Rock. Looking back it seems surreal, a
nd hard to picture all that we saw in those 12-15 minutes on the point of Castle Rock. It makes us want to go again....and again. Over dinner that night, Eddy and Fi explained that it's different every time because all the factors dynamically change - the intensity of the current, slack tide, pelagic migrations, the moon, seasonal changes, tidal shifts, plankton levels, water temperature, and so on. To this point, we dove Castle Rock the next day, at slack tide, and it was a completely different site. If they hadn't assured us that it was indeed Castle Rock, we could have sworn it was another reef completely.
After the morning dive of Castle Rock, Harry motored us to Manta Alley, and set us adrift in snorkeling gear. We had several other dives planned, so Eddy and Fi opted to let us experience the Mantas from above. There was gentle surface current, so we simply floated along the reef and watched groups of 2-6 mantas glide along feeding on plankton. We were in 5-10 meters of water, with good visibility all the way to the bottom, a sunny sky above and elegant black stealth mantas dancing below us. We were tired from Castle Rock, but everyone caught a second wind when we saw the mantas. In the end, we almost didn't get Thibault into the dinghy. He didn't want to leave the mantas.
We dove two more sites on the second day, and they were both good, but we were spoiled by Castle Rock and the mantas. It was all we could talk about that night. Day 3 was again a good day. We had clear skies, good visibility, and dove three more unique sites. The one that stood out for us was "The Cauldron". It was a dive site in the channel between two islands, where the currents really rip (and that's saying a lot in Komodo speak), and a large hole was created over time. The water rushes over the hole, and down into the hole (kinda like a toilet flush), and then runs out through the channel. The current has to be going away from the cauldron to dive the site. And, for fun, there is a dangerous down current in the cauldron that could be lethal. Eddy and Fi casually explained all this in the dive brief over a cup of coffee, and then told us to suit up. Cat was growing more anxious with every strong current dive, and was more than a little apprehensive. So, it w
as Fi to the rescue. She buddied with Cat, and I shifted over to Eddy, and the dive was as advertised. The first 20 minutes, we explored the reef adjacent to the cauldron, and in an calm eddy. Then, we angled into the current, and out into the channel, hugging the bottom as we peered into the cauldron. Then, Eddy signaled it was time to ride, and like skydivers we peeled off the bottom in formation and rode the currents from 30 meter depth up to 10 meter depth and over the lip of the channel. For effect, Eddy did his signature somersault and Thibault followed suit. They looked like dolphins. It was madness......and tons of fun. It's not the greatest dive we've ever done,
but it was certainly unique and memorable.
Day 3 ended with the Ari Jaya motoring home to Flores with the sun setting on her stern. We had grown close to everyone aboard, and were melancholy that the liveaboard dive cruise was almost over. We exchanged emails and promised to keep in touch. Unlike other meetings, I sincerely think we will see each other again someday. The feelings of satisfaction and wonder at all we had seen and done stayed with us for days afterwards. I turned 46 years young in Indonesia, and thanks to Cat's encouragement and adventurism Indonesia put its mark on my soul.
My first differentiated birthday was when I turned 30. I called the party "Teo's 3-0", and essentially hosted my own party with a large contingent in San Francisco. The night was a revelation. I discovered that people were in a party mood 2 weeks before Christmas - all I had to do was ride the holiday spirit wave. Since then, I've plotted and planned my own birthday parties, to greater or lesser extent than when I turned 30, and often incorporated domestic and international travel, because, well it was a good time to travel after Thanksgiving and just before the Christmas rush.
Fast forward to 2009. The days were winding down on being 45 years old, and I had been negligent in putting together a plan. As of Thanksgiving, Cat and I were in limbo, and were contemplating canceling the remainder of the around-the-world (ATW) tour. The source of the limbo was that just before Thanksgiving, Cat's mom (Barbara) had not been feeling well and scheduled some very serious tests to see if she had a relapse of breast cancer, as well an MRI to rule out brain cancer. Serious stuff, indeed, so Cat flew home to offer support during the diagnosis. If Barbara was real ill, we were going to cancel the remainder of our world tour. Fortunately, Barb's tests came back clean and healthy, so Cat made plans to rejoin me in Bali. She did so a week before my birthday. Being in Indonesia, there were a ton of choices, but with time being short, I shared with Cat my half-plan (half baked, 50 percent random). Cat needed to see Ubud on Bali for a few days, and then I wa
nted to get to a remote beach.....fast. We opted for Gili Trawangan, a small sand bar off Lomboc island (see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gili_Trawangan), just a 4 hour ferry ride from Bali. It's a sandy shoal of an island, about 6 kilometers around. We walked it one morning, and it was a top-10 hike of our world tour in my book (Cat keeps her own book).
My birthday actually started at sundown on Dec 10th (on the evening after our walk around the island). Cat thought it would be fun to do a night dive off Gili, so we signed up with Blue Marlin Dive. It was a very cool dive, both in terms of all the cool critters we saw, and also for some man-made structures they are using to rebuild the coral reef.
The next morning was perfectly sunny, and we had breakfast on the beach, toes firmly planted in the white sand. The day went by in a flash, but
included all of life's pleasures - some winky winky (a good husband never talks......but blogging......that's acceptable), snorkeling Shark Point, booking our travel and liveaboard for Komodo islands (no small feat; we visited 5 travel agencies before our Divemaster recommended his friend, Jenny, who had friends that run a liveaboard), sunset beach, and a tasty grilled fish dinner under the stars. It was a great day.
The Komodo Liveaboard trip was still technically part of my birthday celebration, but it was a gift for us both, and something we had been dreaming about ever since we put Bali on our world tour. Indonesia is full of amazing dive locations, but something kept luring us back to Komodo. The more we read about the overall diving experience, the more we felt that we couldn't pass it up. But, we had to earn it. The flights from Lomboc to Bali, and then down to Flores to pick up our ship were completely booked for the dates we needed. So, we made a painful decision. We opted for the boat/bus/ferry/bus/ferry route - 34 hours start to finish!!! By the time we met Eddy and Fiona at the Lounge Restaurant/Bar in Flores we were in shambles, but completely STOKED for the adventure ahead......provided it started with a shower and a cold drink.
On the evening of December 13th, we boarded the Ari Jaya along with Thibault the Frenchman and Remco from Holland. The captain and crew were salty Sulawesi, all related, and all very much sea faring gents. When I was doing research about Komodo diving, the reports all said that drift diving was "the thing to do". In his first dive brief, Eddy explained why Komodo was unique. Between Komodo Island and Rinca Island, there is a East-West reef that lies 5 to 50 meters below the surface. On the North and South sides of this reef, the oceans quickly drop-off to 1000-1500 meters. So, everyday, when the tide changes, all the water runs in class-5 river rapids over the reef. And, with the heavy currents come hordes of all types of Indonesian fish - small blemmies to sharks to dolphins to manta rays. Or, at least that's what Eddy "told us" in his first dive brief. We had to go see for ourselves, of course.
Eddy and Fi (pronounced Fee) eased us into the drift diving with a protected cove dive at Saboyer. It was a terrific site, with only a little current and a wealth of sea life. It was the appetizer dive. After a giant-stride off the ship, we descended to 20 meters, and promptly were greeted by a manta ray gliding along below us. I was thinking, "nnnice start." Later in the dive I spotted a fairly rare crocodile fish resting on the reef, practically invisible in its camouflage. The visibility was good, the reef was healthy, and we were back to diving. Day 1 on the Ari Jaya included 3 dives at various, different topography sites, with meals interspersed during our surface intervals. After our last dive of the day, we took the dinghy around an island to intercept the big boat. It was sunset, and the sky was aflame in colors; punctuated with massive storm clouds and flashes of lighting. Eddy and Fi grinned knowingly, and were likely thinking, "just another day in th
e Komodos." For us, it was heaven on earth.
Day two started with a short dinghy ride to Rinca Island to see the legendary Komodo dragons. From the dock, we made our way through a mangrove forest and high-tide lag
oon to the ranger station. It was 7:30am when we signed in, and picked up our guide. After a short walk we came to the guide's stilted houses, and sunbathing on the ground were 10 adult dragons. Apparently, the moment they smell the guides cooking breakfast, they waddle in from the jungle and surrounding hills, hoping for a handout. The guides waved good morning to us, and came down from their houses, each careful to look under the staircase in case a dragon was lurking. Given it was early morning, the dragons were docile and sleeping, trying to warm their cold blooded anatomy. A few moved (slowly, of course) to better sun positions, or into a better breakfast buffet position, I suspected. Everyone in our group was actively taking pictures and video - amazed, intensely curious. The guide kept repeating, "not too close. Not too close." Apparently, one bite from a dragon and the victim would require a week in a hospital getting IV's of antibiotics. Komodo dragons were (and always will be) highly lethal predators, particularly after they warm up in the sun.
After the initi
al photo op, the guide led us on a hike through the jungle to see the dragon habitat. Along the path, we came upon a clearing with 10+ large holes. Our guide explained that dragons dig several holes, but lay eggs in only one to confuse other predators, which it turns out are mostly other dragons. As the old Indo saying goes, "it's a dragon eats dragon world out there." Further along the path we came upon a female dragon with her head buried in a hole, dirt flying over her shoulder. In our commotion, she stopped, pulled her head out of the hole, and considered us. She was obviously unafraid of humans, and why should she be when we were terrified of her. The guides had found, and hung on a tree, a skeleton of a water buffalo that had been attacked, and its bones picked clean by the dragons. It was a chilly reminder of how and why these Jurassic survivors had flourished in this remote island region. Making our way back to the dinghy, we came upon a loner on the trail. We didn't have our guide, nor his long thumping-stick, so we pulled to the side to give her plenty of room to pass. She waddled in the morning sun, probably smelling the guides cooking (or the human buffet on the trail ahead of her), and her pink tongue licked the air. She was the top of the food chain, and just getting warmed up.
Day 2 diving was awesome. The premier, world-renown dive site in the Komodo Islands is Castle Rock, and that was our second dive on Day 2. Eddy's dive brief was great because he explained why the site was so unique, and not just where and how we would dive the site. To paraphrase his more eloquent explanation, Rinca and Komodo islands are separated by a shallow channel (5-50 meters) that runs Ea
st/West. When the tides change, the seas run from North to South, and funnel billions of gallons of water over the shallows in raging rivers of currents a couple of times a day. The seas go to 1000+ meters deep on the North and South sides of the islands, and the tidal shift essentially pours 5-10 meters of open sea through a narrow straight and over the shallow reefs. The sheer power of this spectacle is amazing, and we had the good fortune to be part of the tidal dance through the Castle Rock dive. Harry, the dinghy boat driver, perfectly positioned us on the side of the reef, down current from our target location on the South end of the reef. We had to do a negative entry (definition: back roll out of the boat with no air in the BC, and extra weight, and immediately descend to the reef at 20 meters). The current was the strongest I have ever experienced, and it immediately pushed us back as we kicked for the bottom. It was an exhilarating, anxious start to the dive. Once on the bottom, our dive plan was to move from the side of the reef, directly into the current, to the point of Castle Rock. In short bursts of kicking, we made our way from rock-hold to rock-hold, resting at each stop to ease our breathing. Me and Cat followed Fi to a forward position on the reef, and found a bare spot to lay down and enjoy the show. And, Oh MY!! what a show. The point of the rock faced into the oncoming currents, and a complete eco-system of sea life danced before our eyes, like a an underwater big-screen Hollywood premier. It was sensory overload, really. Riding the currents, white tipped and black tipped sharks prowled left and right 5 feet in front of us. There were schools of giant trevally, tuna, barracudas, and jacks, and the occasional hawk-billed turtle moving like a ship surrounded by jetskis. The species were too many to count, really. The aquarium show almost allowed us to forget that we were staring into a raging river, holding on for our lives. We were mesmerized until Fi motioned for us to follow her and Eddy into the blue. It's one of Eddy's favorite things to do in Komodo - be one with the fish; join the party. So, we kicked into the current and out into the deep blue ecosystem. The spectacle of nature was on full display, and we enjoyed it to the fullest with wide-eyed (some might say, bug-eyed since our eyeballs were practically protruding out of our masks) wonder. After a time, Fi signaled to us that the show was over, and we rode with the currents (finally, going with it) back to the middle area of the rock, and into the shallows for the safety stop. For the first time in my diving history, I ran low on air, and had to borrow from Cat and Fi. This minor embarrassment aside, it was SOOO exciting to dive Castle Rock. Looking back it seems surreal, a
nd hard to picture all that we saw in those 12-15 minutes on the point of Castle Rock. It makes us want to go again....and again. Over dinner that night, Eddy and Fi explained that it's different every time because all the factors dynamically change - the intensity of the current, slack tide, pelagic migrations, the moon, seasonal changes, tidal shifts, plankton levels, water temperature, and so on. To this point, we dove Castle Rock the next day, at slack tide, and it was a completely different site. If they hadn't assured us that it was indeed Castle Rock, we could have sworn it was another reef completely.After the morning dive of Castle Rock, Harry motored us to Manta Alley, and set us adrift in snorkeling gear. We had several other dives planned, so Eddy and Fi opted to let us experience the Mantas from above. There was gentle surface current, so we simply floated along the reef and watched groups of 2-6 mantas glide along feeding on plankton. We were in 5-10 meters of water, with good visibility all the way to the bottom, a sunny sky above and elegant black stealth mantas dancing below us. We were tired from Castle Rock, but everyone caught a second wind when we saw the mantas. In the end, we almost didn't get Thibault into the dinghy. He didn't want to leave the mantas.
We dove two more sites on the second day, and they were both good, but we were spoiled by Castle Rock and the mantas. It was all we could talk about that night. Day 3 was again a good day. We had clear skies, good visibility, and dove three more unique sites. The one that stood out for us was "The Cauldron". It was a dive site in the channel between two islands, where the currents really rip (and that's saying a lot in Komodo speak), and a large hole was created over time. The water rushes over the hole, and down into the hole (kinda like a toilet flush), and then runs out through the channel. The current has to be going away from the cauldron to dive the site. And, for fun, there is a dangerous down current in the cauldron that could be lethal. Eddy and Fi casually explained all this in the dive brief over a cup of coffee, and then told us to suit up. Cat was growing more anxious with every strong current dive, and was more than a little apprehensive. So, it w
as Fi to the rescue. She buddied with Cat, and I shifted over to Eddy, and the dive was as advertised. The first 20 minutes, we explored the reef adjacent to the cauldron, and in an calm eddy. Then, we angled into the current, and out into the channel, hugging the bottom as we peered into the cauldron. Then, Eddy signaled it was time to ride, and like skydivers we peeled off the bottom in formation and rode the currents from 30 meter depth up to 10 meter depth and over the lip of the channel. For effect, Eddy did his signature somersault and Thibault followed suit. They looked like dolphins. It was madness......and tons of fun. It's not the greatest dive we've ever done,
but it was certainly unique and memorable.Day 3 ended with the Ari Jaya motoring home to Flores with the sun setting on her stern. We had grown close to everyone aboard, and were melancholy that the liveaboard dive cruise was almost over. We exchanged emails and promised to keep in touch. Unlike other meetings, I sincerely think we will see each other again someday. The feelings of satisfaction and wonder at all we had seen and done stayed with us for days afterwards. I turned 46 years young in Indonesia, and thanks to Cat's encouragement and adventurism Indonesia put its mark on my soul.
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