The change in atmosphere is a good metaphor for our lives. In Roatan, we were grounded to one location, and pursuing knowledge and technique to get certified by PADI to be divemasters. We had instructors and mentors, and were tested mentally and physically on a regular basis as part of a program for certification. In the Himalayas, our guide (Yagya "no car, no keys" Karki) wasn't certified in anything other than common sense and good humor. He knew the mountains because he was from the mountains, literally a product of the mountains. Our experience in the Himalayas was not shaped by b
ooks or written exams, but by learning rudimentary nepalese expressions, listening to our strained bodies (Yagya's favorite line- "rest is best"), and testing the limits of our endurance. In Roatan, we floated effortlessly and controlled our breathing to maximize 'down time'. In Annapurna Sanctuary, we drudged up and down seemingly neverending paths for 6 to 8 hours a day and had to gasp for air on the steep climbs due to the thin air and relentless stairs. Riding the currents along the West End Wall (a world-class dive site on Roatan), we encountered a myriad of sea life, an array of colorful coral, and an unmatched dramatic underwater topography. Trekking through the clouds to ABC was an act of will to moderate your breathing and provide enough oxygen to your limbs to keep from getting altitude sickness, and the payoff was a night sky so brilliant and bright that it took your breath away...which can be dangerous at that altitude.
ooks or written exams, but by learning rudimentary nepalese expressions, listening to our strained bodies (Yagya's favorite line- "rest is best"), and testing the limits of our endurance. In Roatan, we floated effortlessly and controlled our breathing to maximize 'down time'. In Annapurna Sanctuary, we drudged up and down seemingly neverending paths for 6 to 8 hours a day and had to gasp for air on the steep climbs due to the thin air and relentless stairs. Riding the currents along the West End Wall (a world-class dive site on Roatan), we encountered a myriad of sea life, an array of colorful coral, and an unmatched dramatic underwater topography. Trekking through the clouds to ABC was an act of will to moderate your breathing and provide enough oxygen to your limbs to keep from getting altitude sickness, and the payoff was a night sky so brilliant and bright that it took your breath away...which can be dangerous at that altitude.Roatan was our first venture away from the life we had known in California. We had suspended our careers and put all our 'things' into storage to pursue a hobby, be beach bums and become hardcore divers. It was a change from our routine, to be sure, but we quickly developed new routines for our 10 weeks on the island. We made friends, and put down roots in a way. It was home away from home- comfortable and easy and stable (sort of).
Nepal was anything but easy and stable. By then, we were vagabonds who toured 14 european countries over 4 months, and then flew to China for three weeks before landing in Nepal. It was hard to keep track of our time zone and the currency exchange rate. We became accustomed to feeling uncomfortable with our surroundings, and to rely on each other to figure out when, where, how and why for each locale. On the Nepal trek, our lives became simple again. Follow Yagya that was our job. He guided us through luscious valleys of rice fields. We trusted Yagya, just as we trusted each other. The trekking was strenous, but each night when we reached our Teahouse and checked into our rustic, spartan room we felt like world-beaters, indominable. While Cat showered off the days sweat, Yagya and I had our daily beers. It was a simple daily formula, and through it all we climbed, and climbed, and climbed.
Not wanting to have us get altitude sickness, Yagya had us stop for an extra long lunch before trekking the final leg to ABC ("rest is best," he'd say with a knowing smile). We hiked through the fog and cloud cover and at last came to the ABC signpost. It looked like a mirage in the fog but got clearer as we neared. The day was September 15, 2009-our 2nd anniversary and we were 13,550 feet above sea level. It was exhilerating!!! After checking in, we washed up and put on more layers of clothing. As the sun fell, so did the temperature. We joined all the other trekkers in the restaurant and ordered hot food and hot tea (kalo chia). As the other patrons finished their meals, and said their goodnights, we played cards and enjoyed the foot heater the owner had put under the table. Cat, in her puffy coat, was particularly reticent to leave the dining hall, which was good because I had a couple of surprises for her.
With only Yagya and a few other guides still in attendance, I unveiled my anniversary plan. First, I had secretly purchased a panoramic postcard of ABC and had written a private note to her. I had Yagya write 'happy anniversary' in nepalese and he signed the card as well. Tears welled up in Cat's eyes as she read the card and I stole a knowing glance at Yagya acknowledging his help. Second, I poured brandy for us and the guides to toast our 2 years of married life. The guides, other than Yagya, were all married with children and they chuckled at the silly Americans making a big deal out of 2 years. Our favorite marital expression is counting down our projected 50 y
ears together (if we live that long). So, we toasted 'just 48 more years to go' and washed back the cold with a swig of Brandy. Lastly, I asked Cat for a dance. She looked at me puzzled, but was game for it so long as we didn't venture too far from the heater. I went into the kitchen and returned with our iPod and two headsets (we have a splitter). In the teahouse nestled below a ring of 25,000 foot snow capped peaks we danced to our wedding song Dance me to the end of love by Madeline Peyroux in the company of 4 sherpas and the smiling cook. Later in our room, we snuggled under two quilts and listened to love songs on our iPod and talked of how far we'd traveled in a year, what we'd seen, our favorite moments and reveled in the moment of our 2nd anniversary.
ears together (if we live that long). So, we toasted 'just 48 more years to go' and washed back the cold with a swig of Brandy. Lastly, I asked Cat for a dance. She looked at me puzzled, but was game for it so long as we didn't venture too far from the heater. I went into the kitchen and returned with our iPod and two headsets (we have a splitter). In the teahouse nestled below a ring of 25,000 foot snow capped peaks we danced to our wedding song Dance me to the end of love by Madeline Peyroux in the company of 4 sherpas and the smiling cook. Later in our room, we snuggled under two quilts and listened to love songs on our iPod and talked of how far we'd traveled in a year, what we'd seen, our favorite moments and reveled in the moment of our 2nd anniversary.In the middle of the night, I had to go to the bathroon (too much tea and brandy apparently). After peeing in a hole in the dark, I emerged from the outhouse and looked up for the first time. The clouds had cleared and the 3 a.m. sky was brilliant with stars. It was a different night sky than any I had ever seen. For a few minutes, the cold disappeared and I found myself walking in the clearing, away from the teahouse, slowly turning to take in a 360 degree view of the most stars this side of the earth's atmosphere. I was stunned. Then, the cold wind reminded me to return to my wife, and I did so happily - joyful to have Cat in my life, and content beyond my imagination.
"Just 48 more years to go..."
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